Day 2 of our journey began at 7.00 am. after a spat with the management of our hotel over the fact that our geyser trickled ice cold water, instead of piping hot. The solution, use any bathroom in the hotel, as we were the only guests.
On the dot of 7, we trooped out of the hotel and headed out into the mist. Mile after mile, the highway unfolded before us through a diaphanous haze. An hour later, we stopped for breakfast at a small roadside eatery. Omelettes, parathas and steaming cups of tea fortified us for the journey ahead.
The 215 km from Bhopal to Panchmarhi is pleasant, but not memorable for any specific reason. The roads are good in most part and meander over rivers and through forests, as they snake their way steadily higher. There is a predominance of curious monkeys, both in the forests, as well as on the hilly road to Panchmarhi. Its obvious that tourists stop and feed them, despite notices requesting them not to. The moment we stopped anywhere near a monkey we were surrounded by simians, waiting for the proverbial treat.
The monkeys advanced slowly, and cautiously, with an air of expectation around them. Having experienced what a bunch of monkeys can do, if they decide to get vicious, I decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and left the monkeys to their devices.
The final leg of the journey is a winding, narrow, 22 km long single lane highway that ascends almost 800 metres, to a height of 1050 metres from the base. A driver's skill and nerves, as well as his intuition are put to the test. Cars hurtle around corners without so much as a 'peep'. We arrived in Pacmarhi around lunchtime, and ate at an MP Tourism resort - a 100 year estate now converted into a tourist home. Even today the old world charm is very much apparent.
Post lunch, we checked in to 'Evelyn's Own' - a charming homestay which will be our home for the next few days. Run by the dignified Mr. and Mrs. Rao, the homestay is straight out of a picture post-card. Warm, yet quaint, with marginally overgrown foliage, it's just the kind of place I like.
After a short nap and a cup of tea, we set out to explore the environs of the city. As the sun set over the horizon, we found ourselves by a lakeside, alone, listening to the sounds of the migratory birds settling in for the night, and in the distance...the city gearing up for an evening of commerce and consumption. Every once in a while, a jeep whizzed past, horns blaring, shattering the serenity. And then, for a few moments, it seemed as though we were in another world...
From the tranquility of our homestay to the hubbub of a bustling market, screeching horns, chattering Gujarati tourists and ambling, cows, they seemed lie two worlds apart. The Gujaratis make their presence felt through sight, sound and hard cash. They're everywhere, conversing loudly, haggling, asking the world to Ghatkoparise everything. A conversation with a tea vendor said it all. A middle aged man asked him to make strong 'Gujarati' chai, instead of the way he was used to making it - mild and sweet. The whole purpose of travel is to experience different cultures, cuisines and lifestyles - not merely to tick sights off a bucket list. Someday, I hope that they will eschew the 'been there, seen that culture' and really experience the places they visit.
Back at our little nest, we relaxed under a moonlit sky, with a cup of freshly brewed green tea and candlelight for company. It was almost ethereal. The perfect way to end a pleasant day.
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